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Residence of the poet and headquarters of the Speaker…

El espacio de la ciudad que guarda mayor relación con Miguel Hernández es la morada donde reside cuando llega a la capital y donde convive con su esposa Josefina Manresa.

Esta vivienda se sitúa en el número 9 de la calle Llana –hoy Francisco Coello, número 9–, Palacio de los Marqueses de Blanco Hermoso (existen varias fotografías donde el matrimonio se encuentra en la azotea escribiendo a máquina o en otros quehaceres).

Se da la curiosidad de que el edificio, además de su vivienda, también era la sede del Comisariado y donde se localizaba el Altavoz del Frente Sur.

Actualmente el edificio es una vivienda particular y no se puede visitar siendo una placa en la fachada, lo único que evoca la importante trascendencia de este edificio.

Al igual que las fotografías con su esposa, existen otras tanto en el interior como en la azotea donde aparecen otros miembros del Comisariado, por lo que debió ser un lugar muy ajetreado.

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The Orange Trees Square

Continuing in a straight line along Calle Maestra, we turn and climb slightly up Calle Colegio until we reach Plaza de los Naranjos, a beautiful corner brimming with citrus fruits that give it its name and the only space where you can enjoy a beautiful ceramic plate dedicated to Miguel Hernández and complemented with a nice and brief extract from the poem “The last corner”:


The orange trees tastes like life and the olive trees tastes like time.

And in between their grieving

My passions collide.(…)

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Air-raid shelter

After the bombing of the city of Jaén by Francoist troops on April 1, 1937, which caused 159 fatalities and considerable material damage, measures were taken to prevent and minimize future air attacks: sound warnings, night-time darkness by turning off lights and the construction of several public underground shelters scattered throughout the city.

Shelters that, at the end of the war, were abandoned and even forgotten, with significant physical deterioration. One of them, located in the Plaza de Santiago, was built using the old crypts of the Church of Santiago. A shelter that had a capacity to accommodate up to 1,040 people in its different corridors in the event of a possible bombing.

This refuge has been recovered as a space for interpretation of the Civil War and as a place of historical memory of Andalusia. In its corridors you can see various photographs of the bombing, the tragic consequences it caused, as well as other testimonies such as front pages of the Southern Front or various poems by Miguel Hernández. The refuge can also be seen through a virtual visit:

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Institute of Jaén Studies

Institute of Jaén Studies (Instituto de Estudios Giennenses – IEG) is an Autonomous Body of the Diputación de Jaén whose main function is the promotion and study of culture, science and art in the province of Jaén.

The IEG is introduced in this itinerary due to its work of documentation and custody of the Miguel Hernández Legacy. A legacy made up of 5,600 records and more than 26,000 images (collections of manuscripts, photographs, brochures, scores, historical press, sound recordings, etc.), with the intention of being a fundamental tool to promote studies and research on the figure and the work of the poet.

Although the Legacy can be consulted through the Internet: miguelhernandez, it is possible to consult part of it in this institution, which has its headquarters in the Old Hospital of San Juan de Dios de Jaén, a 15th century building.

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Jabalcuz hot springs

Although quite far from the proposed Hernandian urban itinerary, one of the places that are linked to Miguel Hernández and that deserve a visit are the Jabalcuz Hot Springs.

The hot springs were owned by the same owners as the building of his home and the Commissariat, so he may have known them for this reason. He used to walk or walk up there together with his wife, and sometimes bathed in a pool in the farm.

Josefina Manresa remembers these events in the book of her Memories: Memories of the widow of Miguel Hernández:

(…) We would go out for a while to the outskirts, to a party called Jabalcuz. There was a pool where Miguel bathed. Other times I typed. I wanted to teach myself. (…)

Currently, the Jabalcuz Hot Springs are in disuse, the historic garden being perfectly preserved, a place of incomparable beauty, while the building of the hot springs is in the process of restoration, improvement and enhancement. Not in vain, the historic garden is declared Asset of Cultural Interest.

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Carrera de Jesús street house

On his trip to Jaén, Federico García Lorca stayed at the house of Don Manuel Montero Sola on Carrera de Jesús Street. The building consists of three floors with a lateral façade of exposed stone, while on the main façade there are two central balconies flanked by two viewpoints with bars and a noble coat of arms on one side. The Aqueduct of Carmen was in its back gardens.

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Aqueduct of Carmen and path of the Orchards

On November 2, 1925, García Lorca dated a postcard with the image of the Aqueduct of Carmen and the Senda de los Huertos, very close to the address he uses as his residence, on Carrera de Jesús Street. In this postcard, addressed to his friend Melchor Fernández Almagro, who lived in Madrid, he recommends his visit to Jaén: “I’m sure you would find the character of this landscape magnificent.”

Senda de los Huertos was one of the city’s scenic heritages until it was urbanized, in the years sixties of the 20th century. This area, steeped in history (Roman and Muslim remains have been found), constituted a landscape of orchards distributed in terraces and terraced gardens of the courtyards of the houses upon which the towers of the Cathedral magnificently stood out, and conferred to the Path its hallmark. Next to these orchards was the ancient Aqueduct of Carmen, of Roman origin, with sixteen semicircular arches built in stone and brick that supported the canal. The Aqueduct was eliminated by demolition in 1976 and nothing of it is preserved today.

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Place of Santa María (Cathedral de Jaén)

En la plaza de Santa María se ubica la Catedral de Jaén, el gran monumento de la ciudad, por lo que no escapa al interés de nuestros escritores. Por ejemplo, Juan Eslava Galán utiliza estos espacios para contextualizar lugares y acciones en sus obras; Federico García Lorca los reseña en sus postales cuando viaja por Jaén y Miguel Hernández la refleja en sus artículos sobre el bombardeo de Jaén

Vínculo con Federico García Lorca

Vínculo con Miguel Hernández.

Vinculo con Juan Eslava Galán

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Castle of Santa Catalina

The castle of Santa Catalina, one of the emblems of Jaén, crowns the hill that gives it its name, from where you can see a unique and spectacular landscape of the city and its mountains. It also houses an Interpretation Center which offers a tour of its history.

The origin of the fortress is an old caliphate fortress from the 9th century, the Christian castle that has survived to this day was built in the 13th century. After the conquest of the city by Fernando III, its defenses are fortified and turned intoǨ-ñ. an important bulwark against the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada.

The castle of Santa Catalina is a symbol for the people of Granada and Juan Eslava Galán continuously echoes it and introduces it in his works, as he does in Los Templarios and La Mesa de Salomón.

(…) During my stays in Jaén I had climbed several times to the castle of Santa Catalina. After unveiling the secrets of its builder, Alfonso X, I revisited it with a different spirit (…)

The Templars and the Table of Solomon. Chapter 18.

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The lizard of La Malena

The Lizard of La Malena (decay for Magdalena, Jaén’s oldest neighborhood and where its mythical lair was located), is the most famous legend of the capital, possibly the most outstanding creation of popular literature.

The influence of this legend is such that the lizard has become a symbol of the city, being present in its urban space (statue of the lizard), concerts (Lagarto Rock), on the coat of arms of the Cabildo of the Cathedral, etc. So much so that the legend of the Lagarto de la Malena is one of the ten Treasures of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Spain.

But who better than Juan Eslava Galán to tell us the story of the lizard:

(…) The hotel concierge told me the story: a monstrous lizard, bigger than a crocodile, lived in the Magdalena spring, in the center of medieval Jaén, and devoured people and herds. The population was so terrified that they began to emigrate. Then, a a convict sentenced to death offered to kill the monster if his life was spared. The authority agreed, released him and made the necessary means available to him, but he refused the weapons offered to him and only asked for a horse and a lamb.

He ate the lamb was eaten on the eve of the feat in the company of the prison chaplain.

(…) The next day, at daybreak, he got on his horse and headed for the spring. When he reached the edge of the stream he gave a few voices and, as soon as he saw the monster come out, he threw the lambskin stuffed with dry tinder, which he had previously lit. The lizard took it for a live lamb, swallowed it whole, the tinder scorched its entrails and burst open. (…) The Templars and the Table of Solomon. Chapter 1.